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Through the archives: Arbutus

Back in the late noughties, Arbutus was the talk of the town – an uncompromising star performer famed for its rigorous seasonal sourcing, butch ingredients and pioneering attitude to wine. Anthony Demetre kept prices low (notably the fabulous value prix fixe) by majoring in provincial French classics such as bouillabaisse and pieds et paquets (trotters and tripe) and by making extraordinary use of regular ingredients such as lamb breast. After ten successful years the restaurant closed in 2016 due to an increase in the rent.

Feature

From The Good Food Guide archives: Remembering Michel Bourdin 1942-2023

Michel Bourdin, who has sadly died at the age of 80, arrived at The Connaught in 1975 and spent 26 years in charge of the kitchens. He did a remarkable job reworking classic principles and maintaining a grandeur in the cuisine to match the hotel’s Edwardian splendour. Here you could eat the spectacular chartreuse de gibiers à l’ancienne made in the old manner, as well as steak and kidney pie and perhaps the best bread and butter pudding in London. A rigidly enforced dress code occasionally made the headlines, too. An ‘exceptional’ restaurant in its day.

News

News bite: At Gary Usher’s Elite Bistros, the set menu is out and à la carte is back

Gary Usher, who announced the change last week, said the move was in response to spiralling inflation and the knock-on effect on prices at his seven bistros that include the original Sticky Walnut in Chester, Pinion in Prescot and the most recent opening, The White Horse pub, Churton. The restaurateur ......